- "Blueberry madness"-obozhrat'sja blueberries;
- "The Snake stone" shungite-to get;
- "Moonstones" vest schungites Lunar power atop the Vottovaary (NM-a full moon);
- "Orange Pearl"-try cloudberries (HM-collect it personally);
- "Karelian fishing"-fish (NM-catch and cook wild Karelian trout);
- "Silent hunting"-collect fungi;
- "Wooden Russia"-learn the secrets of wooden architecture. Kizhi (NM-free);
- Imperial marble "-visit the Marble Canyon (NM-free).
Morning departed from of Petrozavodsk with the intention of visiting the kivach waterfall. But one of the drivers has forced me to reconsider, saying that goes almost to the Kizhi-the second point of the planned route. Deciding that the universe doesn't want my meet with waterfall, I drove on.
We went long, about 80 km away. It turned out that in the village, to which he rode-Tolvuja, just extract shungite. For shungitom I decided to jump on the way back and moved on.
Got to the great Lips. Locals say that you can get on Kizhi. As it turned out, only voiced a coin. So I decided to continue the survey. Along the way I met a lady with blueberries, which she wore to donate the drug dealers on 95 p/kg. She said that from the great Lips to Kizhi far easier to get there from the village of Ojatevshhina, said the direction and has treated with generous helpings of blueberries. This was my first Karelian blueberries, though not produced by me, but no less delicious and desirable.
Attempts in my direction was not. The road seemed quite deserted. In the interval in 10-15 km, I met just a few people. The last of them was an elderly cyclist with a full canister blueberries on the trunk. I welcomed him, and he with great cordiality and many details and parts became route and I spell it even drew a map. We are talking about blueberries, and he offered me a little to deviate from the route and take a peek at his favorite Glade where blueberries and cranberries so much that it is impossible to set foot on the ground and bounced in the berries. And the night he proposed, in a tiny village (Yandex said that it is called Vjogoruksy), not far from the glades. As a guide cyclist pointed out the little village Chapel, with the bell tower which can be seen a treasured Glade.
The road took quite a long time, but the drawn card has proven to be very reliable. Easily identified, all guidance, I managed to reach the village with chapel. Berry meadow had decided to leave in the morning, because while I was walking, the twilight descended. The more that the Glade was just on the way from the planned accommodations to the endpoint of the overland route is the village Ojatevshhina.
When the trees, ganging up on both sides of the trail impassable wall, began to thin out, I noticed the left Chapel. Around it there were several abandoned and collapsed homes from the pochernevshego log. The chapel too seemed deserted, but was still intact. Removing sticks, podpiravshie door, I went inside. From the besprogljadnogo of darkness on the stairs on the back ran down her spine. Abandoned housing does not produce such a strong impression, which produce abandoned the mystical.
They do not lose their mysticism, he allegedly only darkens with time. I was a Dim flashlight and he first people found. At the end of the stairs there were three doors. The right was otvorena, was a dark room with a tiny window. Central led in a well lit room with an altar. There were many items pointing to the habitability of the chapel. Having around, I found no more doors. In search of the entrance on belfry entered the third door dark stairs. For it turned out to be no less gloomy staircase podkolokolennogo premises at the end of which I discovered the door leading to the belfry. Bell was no longer there, but opened a spectacular view of the whole neighborhood. I saw a great forest behind and a huge Lake homes on the shore towns, judging from their mind. Berry failed to see me in Ireland, but was able to enjoy razgoravshimsja sunset.
Descending, I headed to the Meadow, on the shore of the Bay, broke camp, a little pogrelsja by the fire and went to sleep.
Day 2. Child Of Nature
Waking up, I ate in Petrozavodsk stocked Apple and grapefruit and began to gather in the street. The desire to eat berries in Prosek was still with me and thanks to the good card was able to quickly find the right place. For an hour I significantly reduced the population of chernichnuju, but throughout the glades it was a drop in the bucket, so that the local bears will be bringing chew. Cranberries also even be counted, but she has not yet had time to mature. Eaten I gathered berries in a pot and went to my backpack, which left the trail. During my Blueberry "hunting", it was chosen by three large butterflies. I had to disturb them. While putting on a backpack, they were not visible, but as soon as I drove off, they whirl around me. Clear skies, sun glare through the edge of the trees, birds singing and floating butterflies than I'm not the Dryad?! O_o
When I went out to the main road, the magic was over, and my companion had left me. I headed toward the Ojatevshhiny. Almost all the way done on foot, but the last couple of kilometres I assisted suddenly appeared poputka. Its driver turned boatman, who was crossing the tourists on the island of kizhi for 250 p. at one end and now he just rode the return of one group on the great earth. Learn about my plans, he became insistent to offer their services and even left a phone number in case I change my mind.
But I have not changed my mind, so the issue with the crossing was delayed in the morning, and the question of choosing accommodation ventured ashore-immediately broke up a tent in the yard nearest to the road home. Nearby was a berth at the end of which I quenched descended into hell Christ destroyed me all the way, thirst and removing all clothes, dived into the Lake. I well after bathing all awakened mosquitoes, so I decided to escape from them in the tent. Snack a bit are buckwheat, Bay a new portion of linseed oil, I went to bed. Sleep is not long to wait and not leave me till the morning.
Day 3. Night at the Museum
I woke up from the rustle like steps. Listened. Source decided to rustle a whiff, and paired tens of centimeters from each other, separated only by a thin tarpaulin tents, I felt two large nostrils, noisy sucks air. From the sound of the blood in my veins froze, and I froze, trying to not emit any sound. On the volume of breaths I managed to calculate the approximate size of a surprise guest, and he seemed to me huge. I thought that I decided to visit the bear, all the more so in local regions, they often go to cities, not to mention remote village! And I waited for interchanges. Sound source approached. Reassured, I finally realized that sharkajushhij sound, which was adopted for the steps that I have actually had a sound sryvaemoj herbs. A giant monster who besiege me, turned out to be a cow.
I got out of the tent, the surprising emergence of the cow, which confused decided to withdraw to somewhere outside the House. Smiling, I splurged oddity incident buckwheat, flooded me at night linseed oil. As proved, buckwheat, perfectly absorbing water does not absorb oil at all, and I had to crack absolutely firm barley, floating in the oil. Unnerved by this fact, I decided to take a walk along the shore in search of other inhabitants of the village. On the other side "of the road to Kizhi", pohrustyvaja grechej, came across a House with a dock to which was approaching motorboat. The boat had two. When they went ashore, I welcomed them. They replied me reciprocate and first in fun blue-and-white hat with bumbonom, asked whether me or something I just walk. I said that just walking, but I need to cross the kizhi, told who I am and where, and that today I was offered assistance for the 250 p. My interlocutor that fact greatly upset and he said that would help me, but only after they have finished their own case. I was very pleased and said that just for this time will bring a tent. Encouraged by the sudden good fortune, went to collect his belongings.
And here it should be noted that in the morning I racked my brains over how do I move on Kizhi unaided and in the near future. The island was not more than a kilometer, and I seriously considered leaving the backpack from someone local and, after establishing all put things in a tight pack, by swimming to reach its goal.
After graduating from the training camp, I went to the side of the House friendly boatman. Waiting for the boat owner, approached him. He handed me his hand and introduced himself as Andrew and I introduced myself in response. Motor has begun to roar and we rushed over, breaking the small ripples of Lake Onega, in the direction of kizhi island.
Mooring, we exchanged good wishes and good luck, and said goodbye. I came down on the pier and headed for shore. An attempt to get at the cash register "grace" ticket free traveler failed. Expressing disappointment, went in the opposite direction on a wooden DAIS, leading to the pier, hoping to find some loophole. And found it. Peremahnuv over the fence, stepped onto a damp but solid ground with rare trees. Deciding that it was too prominent features with the backpack, I hid it under young spruce and went to the box office opposite the northern part of the island. Went to the Western trail and looked at all branches. Has passed "for the Memorial Cross, erected to commemorate the sending kizhan to war 1812 year.
Got to the "village of Pudozhskoj", where many houses and outbuildings of wealthy farmers 17-20 centuries. Massive, mostly three-storey buildings. Even today, few people can afford to live with such panache.
After passing through the Isthmus, I found myself near the chapel of three prelates, which enchanted me with its simplicity and grandeur (even more than cathedrals pogost). Chapel and two barn are located on a hill overlooking the whole neighborhood.
When he reached the northern tip of the island and examining a number of buildings along the way, I headed for the eastern coast towards pogost. Along the way was a living village fossa, all composed of centuries-old houses, which was inhabited by locals. Behind the village turned out to be a large complex of MES with residential and administrative buildings and even had a hefty hovercraft. And further down the road lay the passage in the Museum part of the island-"pogost". It is noteworthy that only here you can get inside all the buildings, get acquainted with the life of past centuries and explore the internals. Having visited all the peasant homes, in Church, I didn't bother to go: they gave me no particular impression.
Bypassing the cashier went to Central trail, picked up his backpack and went to the Hill to the chapel of three prelates sunset and take up overnight.
Waking up, I thought the latest Bilberries and packed all the belongings in a backpack. Today's main task was to get off the island, because the prospect of being stuck on Kizhi for a few days I was not inspired. Leaving a parting glance at the Chapel, I headed to the pier. There were moored ship four 3. On the quay for boats stood two motorboats, they were in the same situation as today, during my arrival to the island. Deciding that these boats leave the harbour not often, I found myself thinking that making this up as I go for val'jazhnogo Cruiser from the vessel, which was constantly bustling with the entire Jetty. But then I realized that the ships will likely hold a course for any major port, and I still need to linger in Karelia.
I decided to wait and rely on the will of the universe that is not forced to wait for long and was represented by the boatman of Asian appearance, middle-aged and steep mirrored sunglasses. He swam to the island on a motorboat and moored next to two standing boats. He immediately agreed to toss me to the Ojatevshhiny, but only after it decides its issues on the island. I have formed the leisure time and I came up with to use it for a snack — crispy buckwheat with linseed oil, what could be better?!
Once on the Mainland, went on the road in the direction of the great Lips. 5 kilometers through I met standing on the road white Nissan Note, which rested three ladies. I didn't bother them and passed on. Here it is worth noting that the entire road from Lips to Ojatevshhiny — a mound of cooked under asphalting, pleasant small gravel and coarse sand, so go on it by foot is a pleasure. 20 minutes later I heard the sound of approaching from the rear of the machine. In a familiar manner avtostopera I extended a hand. It turned out to be a white Nissan. With full trunk and zavalennoj the ceiling half the rear seat. On the other half asleep girl. I.e. in the car was not a place physically, but the machine stopped. With passenger seat popped up an energetic elderly woman and became hard too tightly packed some things from the seat in the trunk — appeared under the ceiling of the venue for my backpack. The girl with the rear seat on the very edge of the megathrust and formed a place for landing. I was just mesmerized by occurred on my eyes and landed on a space that appears. Along the way we talked and I suggested cute show them my Berry in the Woods. Ladies were going to go for mushrooms and berries, but only after urgent cases will settle in Guba. It was around noon and it seemed more appropriate to go further than linger here until the morning. We said goodbye at the entrance to the Great lip. They went their separate ways, and I headed toward the village of Tolvuja, near which the mined shungite is one of the main objectives of my Karelian escapades. The farther the walked and the more vehicles travelled into or past the more thought (and couldn't get rid of that thought!) about the dishes with young forest residents — t with mushrooms and about mushrooms in a cream sauce with potatoes. And that's after going more than 20 km, I switched to the other side of the road and began catching machine in the opposite direction. In less than 5 minutes, as my faithful companion-backpacker, already raced back. Bypassing the whole village in search of the familiar machine, find her and failed. Without exquisite mushrooms, settled overnight on the outskirts of the village.
Day 5. Snake-stone
Waking up, something bite and got ready to go. Replacing a couple of cars reached shungitovogo career. It is remarkable that in all the unique properties of this stone, which lower the local hustlers strew them shoulders and add in the asphalt. On the territory of the deposits were huge black mountains of crushed mineral. In them I became with zeal poking around in search of interesting specimens. After some time I was approached by a man in an orange helmet and said that there cannot be, for us watching cameras everywhere. Escorting me to the exit, advised me to go to a new quarry, which only began to develop, he said, that it recently blew up. A kilometre from the career, as it turned out, was the source of the "Tsaritsyn, which I happily drove. Therefore, deciding not to lose sight of, returned back slightly and kissed to the shrine. At the entrance of the source, and by the way, it is very anturazhno decorated, hangs a plaque with historical and scientific enquiries as follows.
Napier and hoping to be healed from all its oddities, moved in the direction of the explosive career. Warning at the entrance gave recommendations and reported, which signals when the subversive works. I'm all ears. But having thought that the danger is not, in fact, besides the mountains in the distance and the excavator of the breed, replacing a pair of Vehicles here nothing and no one there. So I quietly wandered on field a few hours and considerably enlarged his collection of minerals.
When they reached the Tolvuja, became the catch car Medvezhegorsk or Mezhgory, as the locals say. Stopped a solid man on four, which was of Great Lips. He said he saw me last day when I wandered through the village in search of white Nissan'a. We got to talking and, when approached Mezhgore, he offered to take me to the local attractions-Finnish WWII fortifications, which were cut directly into the rocks. We stopped at the barracks, because then it was not. It was spacious rooms that can accommodate up to 50 people and having all necessary communications. After, we went on the washed out road to the rock, which were carved bunkers and on which, by the way, it turned out (it seemed) a lot of blueberries, cranberries and raspberries for breakfast. On the way, my fellow traveler told me that the Finns for 41-44 years, when this area was under their control, dug a network of tunnels, which runs through the city, but they failed because of several accidents with brave, but lazunami imbeciles.
We said goodbye. I pitched the tent and made a fire. And spent the entire evening, soaking up nook and great views at Onega.
Day 6. It seems, 15 August. The wrong path and Secret Lake
When I woke up, the first thing I thought about the welfare of the stomach. Became climb on rocks in search of berries. There were not as many as I thought today. I think all the best berries surrounded with aborigines, who often come here. Stomach remained unhappy, but it was nothing and I went back through the forest towards Murmansk highway, from which I had to start moving toward the village of Gimoly, near mount Vottovara. Along the way I discovered sea Blueberry and began her mercilessly devour! 40 minutes later, when the fog cleared and madness Blueberry hunger gave way to a sense of laziness, I headed on.
At the Murmansk highway in front of me turned out to be a crossroads in the North was Murmansk-Petrozavodsk in the South. To the East was my destination, and led ground road. A little north of the road stood a sign indicating the direction of roads, but see their failed (NB binoculars-necessary thing!). It was decided not to waste time in vain (however not so!), because until the full moon was only a few days, and before the Vottovaary was still far off. So I immediately went to the East on a dirt road through the dense forest. An hour later the road led me to a deserted career. There was only sand, Pebble, grass grew in some places and were 3-5 summer Birch and pine, I heard the sound of a small waterfall. Around the navysav solid wood. At the other end I noticed Lake, surrounded by boulders. It seems people here not long ago looked.
Making sure that career has no choice other than logging, I decided to take this opportunity to do some things and washed himself. After graduating from the water treatments, began to think, how to be on: back on the highway and go up to the plate to the North or go for sound tracks sound moving machines, which arose because of the very steep climbing on the opposite end of the career. On the sound volume I decided that the road is almost immediately after lifting. Therefore, in order not to lose time in vain (again), dared to climb. On the ground, going from under his feet, and with a huge backpack behind. Not easily hold balance and a couple of times at the risk of turning back, I still overpowered my helping this rebound. My disillusionment was boundless, when instead of the busy road I saw a dense swampy forest. It was at that moment to me realized how much time I was able to "Save", choosing this path. The road from the highway to the Lake and back took about 3:00. Do nothing, had to move in the opposite direction.
Before reaching the North mark, I was convinced that my way is really lies to the East, but it is only from this intersection. Occupying a convenient position, became the catch car.
Along the way several times shouted drizzle and dark sky not to promise anything good, so I decided to stay and look for a place to camp. The rain caught me during the installation of tents. Quickly their all the stuff inside, I went to sleep, and rain Meanwhile heavily drummed on the tense tent.
Day 7. 16 August
When I woke up, the rain was still broke, so strong-willed decision was made and on wallowing in the tent. I didn't want to sleep, so my holding leisure has become the fix the cover from my sleeping bag, which yesterday broke. Through time, the rain eased the pressure, and I managed to get out. The surrounding forest is no longer seemed so threatening, like yesterday and through the lobbying branch of the Sun.
When assembling the tent, I found that the bottom of the whole sea swims. All Backpack was wet. Apparently, due to yesterday's haste and install tents only on four kolyshkah (instead of 12) rain managed to find a gap in the defense. After examining the contents of the backpack and making sure that almost everything in his path. Judging by the rate of movement of the graphics I have true and hardly managed to Vottovaaru to the full moon.
On the road I came across LADA. Good luck, because it was the first car for 40 minutes. The driver said he could ride me six kilometers. 20 minutes later, if no one selects, he or she can toss me another 10 km to the village of Kumsa. And so it happened. He said that he still Kumse some cases, and after he planned to go fishing. I realized that this is my chance, as decided not to hurry up already on Vottovaaru and asked him to take me with you.
Having reached his house, we flooded the stove and pouring tea. It turned out to be indigenous Karel, so I waited for the Karelian fishing with this problems!
Got warmed a bit, we took a tackle and went on a small island a few hundred meters from the House. The trail went through marshy areas, so I had to throw my pants. Wet legs I was not afraid, because it was in their essential rubber sneakers-the most practical shoes! The island was a fishing booth, two boats were moored and one lying belly up in the middle of the island. Gave me a fishing rod, Vasily invited to try their luck from shore until it will bail out the water from the boat. During this time I was able to catch a couple small Rover.
We boarded the boat and set sail from the coast. The weather was changeable, a couple of times he flopped drizzle, the wind drove the clouds in the South. The biting was good, but we decided not to take a risk and swim closer to shore. 30 meters from the island loaded shower and we rushed onto land. Fisherman's Shack was cluttered with scrap metal, so I offered to take refuge under the boat, which was on the island. It turned out to be quite relative haven and after the rain we decided to cook to an ear. Vasily went to the House for boilers and tea, and I began to make a fire. After tea on fire went to pot with fish. When the ear was ready, we removed the trial and went into the House, so as not to tempt fate, because wind drove the clouds in the sky as wanted and could want to order them to us. Eating and prosohnuv in a warm House, we began to gather. Thanking the Basil for my Karelian fishing, we said goodbye. He went back home and I decided to no longer move today and put up a tent right off the road. Noise could not be afraid-machines went rarely, once every few hours. It became colder, and I decided to start a fire. Having got warm by the fire, I saw the mug with not drunk up tea, and, without hesitation, drained her. The tea was cold and strong. Sitting in a tent, I could not fall asleep until dawn and all night on me snishodili revelation. What a strange tea …
Day 8. 17 August. Unbelievable luck
After a sleepless night rate my potion zashkalival somehow. Getting out of the tent, I started folding stuff, as usual without rushing. During my fees have driven several cars. When things were picked and everything was ready for the resumption of traffic, cars were not completely and I had to go on foot. Along the way a couple of times looked at Berry clearings and even frightened away by a couple of grouses from the roadside. Yet like berries, the road passed through the machine, once coming out, they all went somewhere. A couple of hours I had to go down. Sometimes it seemed to me that I can hear the sound of an approaching car, but it was the sound of flying aircraft.
And here once again hearing such sound no longer thought result. But the sound was close and I realized that he took around the bend. It turned out to be a tow truck. Tow truck in this wilderness! I reached out and he stopped. Given the complete lack of discipline and failure to observe absolute motion graphics, it would be an incredible miracle that day reached at least up to the village Justozero, which shares the line from Mezhgory to Vottovaary half. But it turned out that the tow truck is sent to (where else?) straight to the village of Gimoly, which is my destination and is 30 kilometers from the mountain.
Before that I didn't have to ride in jevakuatorah, especially on such roads, half blurry dirt, half-broken asphalt. Due to the length of the car body was tossed so that I felt like a Rodeo participant and often hitting his head on the ceiling, which was half of me. The road took about 4:00, and during this time I learned that Berry, like raspberries, but consisting of one or more of the cotyledon, it is edible and is called Bramble. And that edible mushrooms can be identified by the porous back of the CAP. (here I would like to add that there is a plate (sometimes edible) mushroom and porous (always edible). Porous are considered more "noble", and some types of plate mow under famous porous podberjozoviki and Aspen; just this is different: If "podberjozovik" gotcha plate, this is not exactly a podberjozovik! When they reached Gimol, tow truck began to immerse Skod'u, which could not withstand the drive on Karelian bogs. Watching this scene silently eaten nuts (to achieve a harmonic merge with sensations of observer include song group Aquarium-Like moves ice). When they left, I became to think further. By was a woman with a couple of buckets of berries, and I greeted her, she answer the greeting. I asked whether anyone in the village of dried mushrooms, and who could give them to me in Exchange for fresh, because dry mushrooms easier to transport. She pondered, and after asking how much I need mushrooms. I pointed to the pocket of his backpack. She said she would give me the right amount without any exchange of upon my return from the mountains and invited to drink tea. I did not refuse. It turned out that "tea" meant, in addition to a hot drink, scrambled eggs and homemade mushroom caviar with bread, which turned out to be incredibly delicious. Fill your belly, I received the determination and met to move in the direction of Vottovaary. After I handed the jar with mushroom caviar, bread and a dozen dried plastushkov.
It was about 7:00 pm. After leaving the village, I went well wide rolled primer, filled up with small gravel (gimol'cy called it "grader" on the name of the machine, which equals such roads and went on it, bypassing all the twists, how can I recommend my hostess. After turning on the Quarry Road became track. I walked and walked, the sun slowly going down to the horizon. Small forest swamps, swamp-forest. Along the way several times met the enormous puddles in the entire width of the road and ten meters in length. If not, then rubber slippers I'd totally wet my feet, because bypass accounted for Marsh Moss, which was buried under your feet. Meet periodically swept SUVs. One driver even offered to drive me to mount, despite the fact that was traveling in the opposite direction. I refused, convinced that almost made it, and I didn't want to bother the person. He agreed and said that to mount a really close, wished me luck and went his way.
Drooped twilight, but I foolishly thought that I climb the mountain today. Twilight gave way to the night before, and I still have not reached the foot of the mountain. Dark forest around was filled with the sounds and phantoms. It was not, in itself, and the prospect of a meeting with night predators, for example, trotted, began to seriously trouble me.
It lasted about an hour, until the darkness before me were not someone's vote. Having listened, it became clear that this talk of multiple people. After walking some more, I saw the light lamp and the glow of the campfire, approached, welcomed those present and asked about the road to the mountain. From explanations today, I realized that there is not exactly a hit. The guys offered to join them and stay in their camp. We met, I took the place of fire. The guys gave me tea and offered a taste of fried mushrooms, which were very tasty. These comfort lovers turned out to be a complete kitchen with a burner and all kinds of kitchen utensils, a bunch of food and hookah. Guys prepared. We sat around the campfire to 3:00 and started to slowly disperse to tents. So I got a second almost sleepless night.
Day 9. 18 August. Climbing
Woke up around eight hours and feeling pretty rotten. Apparently the reason was in mushrooms which I was recently.
Tried to start a fire. Tenth attempt I succeeded. 10 hours of tents appeared the first woken up tourist, soon began to awaken and others. After breakfast-lunch camp population was collected for a walk and I, bearing in mind its plight, decided to stay behind to guard the camp. They planned to leave in the evening, so I decided not to rush the farewell and lingered in the camp. Expanding on the Meadow foam, I managed to doze off. When I woke up, had inflamed the bonfire and began to bask. When the guys returned from a walk, we had dinner and began to gather. After a couple of hours behind them came "loaf" and we parted.
I headed to the top of the Vottovaary, when the Sun is going down to the horizon. Given the weighty backpack behind, the path is not struck me as too easy. Had to jump over the stones, move through the fallen trees, and in the end climb almost vertical cliffs. After these tests, I ended up in a vast plateau, offering all the winds, surrounded by huge stones and dry iskorezhennymi trees.
The Sun had sunk behind the horizon. I went farther down the trail, passed through the Lake.
The road swerved a little to the right. Finally, I found a place surrounded by boulders, where you can pitch a tent, without fear that it will blow. At dusk the mountain seemed very unfriendly, mangled trees resemble the scary silhouettes of people and the general atmosphere of the place holodila blood. After finishing the construction of the camp, I spread his Snake-stones on the rock, because in spite of everything I still had time to full moon on Vottovaaru!
Day 10. 19 August. Prisoner of the mountains
I woke up about twelve hours. It rained. In this weather desire getting out of my sleeping bag does not arise. It rained for about an hour, but when it stopped, I ventured off its cover. Although the sky was overcast and the light was a little, I still managed to see sea berries around. Berries turned out to be dotted with the entire top of the mountain. And unlike her sisters from the lowlands, cranberries on top was ripe and juicy, not even red and Burgundy colour.
I immediately attacked the berries. Quench the hunger, took up the diary to reflect the events of the past few days. In the evening due to the clouds look became the Sun, but once it got down to business, but wind and summer coolness turned into widespread bone cold. Felt a bit around, ate berries and about eight hours climbed back into the nest. Any pair chosen by tourists nearby Rock, their boisterous laughter and conversation gave me a long time to fall asleep. I wonder why among thousands of rocks around they chose this? Sleep overtook me only a couple of hours.
Day 11. 20 August. Intervention elements
Morning again started with rain. It wasn't a very good news because today I planned to return to civilization. But first, I was going to fill available I have pjatilitrovku cranberries-souvenir home. While the object of my desires at all times was Blueberry, for long transport fresh it is no good-more days will not live. Cranberries are the same, due to the large amount of benzoic acid (it seems) is not lost for a very long time (it seems) and easily tolerate lengthy travel.
Waiting for the end of the rain, I'm a little bite and started the collection. For a given universal law, when I searched, I saw blueberries cranberries. Now I'm everywhere met only black berries usually with cherries and cranberries are almost never happened. I obsharival the surrounding cliffs just over an hour and gathered around the fourth part of the volume, and then was caught by the rain. Back in the tent, I was forced to listen for several hours, as pouring rain trying to reach me via tarp. At times the rain did temper his onslaught and I made forays to pick berries. The fog around was so thick that visibility was a few feet away. During the day I was able to make several such attacks over the berries. Vymokshij and frozen, I climbed into the tent and went to bed.
Day 12. 21 August. A clear sky and a tail wind
When I woke up, I got out of the tent. The fog was all the same thick, but the rain wasn't going to, so I was determined to get off the mountain. By bringing a little more cranberries, I quickly packed his belongings and headed out along the trail to the South. Despite the slippery stones, Moss, ground and several fallen trees along the way who were blocking the way, turned out to be easier than I expected. But without incident, too: there were a couple of times I poskal'zyvalsja and tried to push me treacherously Backpack on the stones, but I somehow miraculously managed to keep balance and not to unravel.
Coming on the road, I rolled up my pants to knees and headed towards Gimol, overcoming all water obstacles to Wade. When they reached the village, I started looking for a House Ludmila Borisovna, adopt me so warmly last time. It was not her, she went looking for mushrooms, but her son and husband took me with no less warmth, fed to satiety and forced to rest after a hard road. When she returned, she primarily was anxious about the extent of my fullness and invited melt bath. I happily agreed, wash and washed in human circumstances, I was delighted.
For dinner, I was offered a taste-drink of the chaga Birch build-up, which is called the Birch fungus. It is obtained from the dried Birch juice. Drink turned out to be pleasantly tart, reminiscent of a decoction of the bark of the oak, and the interesting thing is that even after the tenth brewing it does not lose its strength. I drank and drank his cup of brewing, but was never able to drink up. For dessert, I was treated with home-made cow's milk with cloudberry jam. To taste it resembled a gooseberry jam with orange zest and light sweet pumpkin flavor. Fresh berries I try failed, but jam I felt excellent.
After dinner I equipped the bed on the couch, and we went to bed.
Day 13. 22 August. Our service and is dangerous and difficult
Due to a hearty dinner, sleep came to me only in the morning, and left me-about six hours. Still slept. I would imagine its infinite chagi and became tuck into cloudberry jam. Somewhere an hour later woke up the hostess (it woke my romp). She cooked me breakfast great scrambled eggs from the tastiest home eggs.
After the meal, I started to collect the backpack. Ludmila Borisovna brought enough surround a small bag of dried mushrooms, handed me a big piece of shelf fungus. Wanted to give even a jar of jam moroshkovogo, but I reluctantly was forced to give up, she was too heavy, and the excess weight I have and so was enough. By this time, woke up and the remaining households. They held me to the gate, we warmly said goodbye and I went to the path.
On the road I almost immediately caught the car to Porosozera. When you reach the desired rotation, I turned in the direction of Suoyarvi and walked through the village. Reaching places suitable for fishing attempts, but located within the locality, I decided to try their luck.
Luck came immediately. It was me in the face of the driver under 50 and Guy years 20 to dark green Zhiguli Quartet. Both were in uniform with strangers I chevrons.
They brought me a few kilometers before leaving the village, the driver is advised to try to catch someone at the exit of the Porosozera in the direction of Suoyarvi. When I came out of the car, the guy with the front seat turned around and looked at me very closely. I decided that this was a manifestation of envy for freedom Iran traveler. As it turned out, I was wrong.
After going a little farther from the landing site, I started catching machine. Through time they drove me black Priora, from which came a man in camouflage with a pattern of "pixel" and dark glasses. He showed me the FSB officer's identity and asked for my passport. After many telephone conversations with different people he invited me to go with him to the nearest branch of the service, which was literally around the corner (just go there and rode the "military" at Four, and their patches were FSBshnye). He held me in an empty Office, where I found a lieutenant. He asked a lot of questions and fills in the form Protocol parallel to me. It's amazing how easily the whole human life can fit A4 sized Protocol. After graduating from the conversation, he asked me to wait in the training room. I waited for about an hour. Staff fairly bustled, deciding how to me to do. Duty came and offered me tea/coffee, but I refused. It was finally decided to send me to Suojärvi and there settle remaining nuances. I was even pleased such a turn, because I had to move in this direction. Outlet waiting for me white KIA Rio with a driver and I already familiar Ensign in dark glasses. On their way they discussed slaed as ordinary rural pals. I silently looked out the window, enjoying the flight past the scenery.
In Kondopoga me transferred to another person in Mufti, who took me in suojärvi MIA. This is a fact I was not very pleased, because my previous experiences with the police was not particularly enjoyable. Prior to this, the FSB assured me that simply checks for the presence of criminal and administrative trail on its channels. But Lord police began clearly nervous, seeing, or rather not seeing in my passport stamp. Me and my accompanying sent to a woman leader of the precinct. This brisk and strong woman (not police) after a long discussion of my situation decided they plan to me administrativku due to lack of enrollment. Gentlemen officers a very confusing status of "no fixed abode", and they are convinced that the outline should be all self-respecting citizens. She instructed me to do his subordinate-elderly captain of the district. It turned out to be a nice and decent person, and I still managed to convince him that in my case there's no composition of offence. After signing my short explanation for me with my accompanying released. We even had time for the bus to Sortavala, which I graciously provided the FSB. Because of this history, I changed my mind to go to the Kolatsel'gu on Petrovsky gun factory and adjacent antourage Gallery. Therefore, the next and last paragraph of my journey through Karelia was Marble Canyon, near the village of Ruskeala, near Sortavala, therefore the direction proposed by the staff quite suited me. I sat on the bus and off we went. After approximately one kilometre we stopped by DPS officer who noticed that we dymimsja. After stopping, the cabin appeared a strong smell of burning rubber. The cause of all these troubles were defective brake pads to correct that after compiling a police protocol began its driver.
Watching all this fuss, I decided to leave to relieve themselves. Behind your back I heard a shout: "where are you?" I realized that this appeal to me, but nevertheless calmly went for Bush. Heard steps behind me walked two, but seeing me, walked past, portrayed too pressed to need people. I chuckled at their resourcefulness and returned to the bus. Through time, in the light of the breakdown of transport I decided not to go today in Sortavala and go buy something to eat. This proved problematic: swarthy driver moustache and KEPI refused to let go of me, said I was a magician, and that he calls "those who put me on the bus". I accepted the call, and welcome to my release was received. I went in the opposite direction, from the station I saw Sol. and decided to purchase the food in it. 10 minutes later I heard steps behind-my friends went with me ssykuny. Soon taxis pulled up new employee took me from accompanying and faithful oath fighters headed for the bus. And we headed to the changer shop, cute dangling on the road. The store have waited another three employees, one of which I was already familiar. They held a Council and decided to leave me under the wing of service and placed in the hotel to avoid unexpected actions on my part. Me with two Kiwi and grapefruit was taken into the hotel "Karelia" and paid for my room. We exchanged phone numbers and told me that it is possible to leave on the bus tomorrow. My first suojärvi familiar to whom I handed over the porosozerskie staff explained what the alert escorts-not his personal whim but a manifestation of the current policy of the service. I finally realized that my further journey through Karelia will be under the watchful supervision of, and if I settle into a hotel was easy enough access that they take when I spend the night in a tent in the forest? Will collect mushrooms and berries with me?!
Day 14. 23 August
In the morning my door knocked fellow senior Ensign, said that he decided to meet with me, asked about future plans. I said that I plan to leave the evening bus to Sortavala. Reply it clearly satisfied and he's gone.
Called Ludmila Borisovna, asked my deeds and gave a hug from her son. Very nice people. After breakfast, I collected things and went down, said the administrator, that leave them and went in the direction of Pyaterochki. The clock was noon. I decided to arrange a holiday for his gastro-Demon and bought half a kilo of original Karelian 335 grams of cream, curd, chocolate packaging Minsk gingerbread from the grain House, 180 grams butter 82.5% and 900 g millet. I mixed the sour cream with cheese and added blueberries, which assembled at Vottovaare. They did not become. I felt obozhravshimsja, but after a time, added a few more cakes with butter. The demon was satisfied.
Started the meal with I in the courtyard behind the bus station. A few minutes later, I was approached by an officer on duty at the station warrant officer of the FSB and carefully offered shelter from the rain starting at the premises of the station. He knew where I was. In General in the city was a huge part of the military border guards and their concentration in zashkalivala, even without taking into account by plain-clothes officers. A feeling that all these guys were aware of "me". Anyway, the meal finished I indoors behind a window station and watered drizzle. Before the departure of the remains for several hours, and I decided to spend them at the station. Periodically me approached Ensign, asked whether I am not going to where. I'm not going to.
Upon entering the bus, I found that the seats were no longer in it. Not long thinking, I took advantage of the ischium Crema and settled on the rear steps of PAZika. We arrived around 17:00, estimated time of arrival at the landing point-21:00. The reason for this was not the distance, and the disastrous road. Along the way we stopped at a few villages, provided by route each bus a little pustel and I decided to take the seat. On glasses appeared periodically drops, but in the direction of travel under the horizon was a strip of clear sky. Kilometers for 30 up to Sortavala was popping sensation that I'm already on the territory of suomov: on the road met the Catholic churches, built gave simplicity and practicality, some shops were dubbed in Finnish.
Twilight descended and we drove into mist. The road went along the lake shore. Catcher captured the spirit. Mist over the Lake, wooded hills in the fog, the last echoes of the sunset on the horizon and all this against the background of a general Northern flavour. Soon appeared on fork Ruskeala, where I came out. When I got to the turn from parked cars came out a man called me by name and patronymic. It became clear that the service is not relaxed vigilance. We talked for about 20 minutes, the employee once again checked my passport, and then told to go to the spring nearby and asked her to call him when I'm heading towards Sortavala. We said goodbye and I went to look for spring-decided to sleep next to him. It was totally dark, but for a lamp I have not climbed. Spring I found, but there was one problem: entrance to it strewn with gravel, asphalted, and around marshes and neprolaznyj a windbreak. Darkness exacerbated all of these impressions. And my single tent could stand only on clay, due to tension between the clubs. Leaving attempts to sink them into the gravel, I somehow stuck 4 Cola on the side and climbed inside the likes of tents.
Day 15. 24 August
I woke up from the noise of passing cars. Get out, quickly assembled the tent and went to the spring. The breakfast was pshenka with oil and the only thing we share is the absence of fire. And it was cloudy and everything around it was dripping wet. Fortunately, I am not the first day had a piece of birch bark. Second half of "fuel reserve", but he failed to ignite the fire. Then I podpalil the last piece and a fire began. All clouds blown off and thought the Sun. Water and not vskipela, but the bubbles were Krupa and razmjakla. After eating, I went to the road, there I picked up a couple, which I missed the spring. They have brought me before turning to Marble Canyon. After walking for about a kilometer, I ended up in the incredibly popular tourist place in the parking lot was about 100 cars and people at the entrance to tolpilos' no less.
Looking around, I went from paid parking at the end of the entry. There I met a boatman in funny admiralskaya Cap. First he proposed to take a boat or catamaran. But if you look to me, I realized that I needed, and pointed out a gap in the fence, which was a few feet from the road at the end of a steep, overgrown bushes and trees. I thanked him and headed into a loophole. Reaching on the way to a picturesque lake, located on the shore, I sogretom the Sun and began to write these lines. I was amazed by the transparency of the water in the lake bottom was visible on several meters deep.
On the other side of the rose Canyon wall, and I was going to go there. But lady came up to me from the group that got a few meters from me. She turned to me and asked for help with burner. When we have the apparatus, rescued persons invited me to the table. Together with them there was three boys-their sons for ten years. Mal'chuganam I helped build a fire. While Fanning, on the burner is already svarilas' buckwheat, and we went to dinner. While we tucked away grechu, swam to the shore, a whole bunch of perch, we surprised over the crystal water of the Lake.
The girls were in the car, and they were peterburzhenkami. After a picnic, they decided to go to the waterfall "White bridges" and invited me to join.
The waterfall was fully well-equipped, all the surrounding rocks were built stage. We izlazili them all and decided to go on another waterfall, which told the local. The trail to it lay on the dirt, mosses and rocks and a waterfall turned out to be disfigured by some power plant with lots of wires. After the waterfall ladies began thinking about a place to sleep, and I went in search of berries.
Tomorrow my companion were going to return to Peter, and offered me a ride. We have agreed to call in the morning. Berries I have not found all the berry bushes stood completely bald, even without leaves, local industrialists overcharged them sellouts. After an unsuccessful hunting I headed over to Berry Lake, hoping to meet their peterburzhenok, but was no longer there. Sitting on the shore, I factored out the tent and tried to kindle a fire. Nothing came of this and I had no evening Campfire gatherings, go to sleep.
Day 16. 25 August
Woke up at 7:30. Collecting things, went sightseeing in the Canyon. Wandering round in empty trails looked all main tourist point and came to the conclusion that the Canyon is so cozy and quiet at this early hour, wasn't so interesting in the eyes of the experienced traveler.
The only thing on my mind was worth the attention and might be interesting here is the boat trip in flooded caves of the Canyon, when you slip on the Crystal surface of the water, and above you hang stone stalactites cones (or stalagmites, which hang from the ceiling). Although at the time of this writing I already possessed information that the Marble Canyon is scheduled to open to tourists kilometers of tunnels. Now that would be really interesting!)
After finishing my walk, I got on the phone with Juljami and we agreed on a time and place of the meeting. To uslovlennomu time I arrived at the right place and almost immediately came to me white Volkswagen. Putting your backpack in the trunk, I climbed into the back seat to three restless sorvancam, and we went in the direction of Peter, skirting the Northern Ladoga from West to East. Approaching a fork in Kondopoga, I called the person who a couple of days ago met me on the turn and told him about our plans. He said that there was no need for personal checking and wished me a good trip. Slipping out of the tenacious clutches of service, we rushed toward the North Palmyra on one of the most scenic roads in Karelia.
- "Blueberry madness"-done-though I am not gorging himself blueberries ad nauseam, but ate her so much that he could compete with the local bears!
- "The Snake stone"-done.
- "Moonstones"-performed in NM-thanks to the incredible luck I managed to catch the full moon on Vottovaaru!
- "Orange Pearl"-FAILED-although I and were fortunate enough to eat moroshkovogo jam, my goal was the fresh Berry, skimpy harvests which gathered for a couple of weeks before my arrival.
- "Karelian fishing"-done-fishing, but with the trout I never met, according to the local, it inhabits only the cleanest of Karelian ponds.
- "Silent hunting"-FAILED-a few times I tried fully to hunt for mushrooms, but the fate of each time relegated me from this venture.
- "Wooden Russia"-Performed In NM.
- Vottovara is a rock massif West-Karelian Hill on the territory of Sukkozerskogo rural settlement in the southeastern part of the Muezerskogo area in the central part of the Republic of Karelia. The mountain is located in 20 km South-East of the village of Sukkozero, 35 northeast of the village of Gimoly and 40 km to the southwest of the large lake (reservoir) Segozero. Vottovara is the highest point of the West-Karelian upland is 417.3 m above sea level. Mountain area 6 sq.m. km.
Vottovara is a mysterious place, which is not included in the standard tourist routes. Gore keeps many secrets is the numerous "seida, whimsical trees, rock pool," dead silence "and special mysterious atmosphere.
Name of Sami descent "Vottovara" is a two-component, the first part is "votto, the second part is" vaara. At the beginning of the Sami toponym is usually known as the definition of the object and then product term: Lake, mountain, River, etc. d.
«Vaara "is translated with Sami as" mountain ". There are still two words with a similar sound: vārr (var) is way, way, vārr' (var') is a forest (long "a" sound). But in the toponyms of Sami descent "vaara always applies to a geographical feature of" mountain ". In the Karelian language: vuaru is a mountain in Finnish: vaara is a mountain, Hill.
"Votto"-transcription of the Sami Word vujejjtje (sounds like "vujejtje") is a defeat, defeat, victory. In Finnish: voitto is victory in the Karelian language: voitto is victory, profit (sounds in both languages — voitto ").
The name of the mountain Vottovara can be translated as "mountain victory".
But the people behind the mountain stuck another name-"death mountain". Superstitious people believe Vottovaaru place the nucleus of evil forces and a bridge to another world: ugly trees grow here, almost no fauna, lakes are dead.
Mountainside is a stone terrace, covered with MOSS. Pine and FIR alternating with old lots and traces of forest fires. Tops is the rocky plateau, some covered with trees of whimsical form and height. For example, old, one hundred year old pine and here are not above two meters. And when you see the local birch, it seems as if some unknown force specially their zakruchivala.
On top of the Vottovaary on the area around six square kilometers is about 1600 stones laid in a mysterious manner. Scientists suggest that it is an ancient religious complex. Vottovaary stones can be easily called seids. Seid is a stone Boulder or rock chip, artificial environment which observed Wednesday is obvious, it has the telltale signs of human impact. The most dense concentration of stones seids — at the highest point of the ridge and along the slopes of the amphitheatre. The stones are located mostly in groups of two to six pieces. Some large stones, which weight reaches about three tons, delivered at the "legs", that is stacked on several smaller stones. The majority of stones lies on the shores of ancient ponds and cliffs. Seida very harmoniously fit into the topography of the mountains are fabulous, rampant chaos traces of ancient earthquakes. Who, when and why these stones staged here?
Any objects that would date the monument to this day was not found. Geologists have drilled the bottom of the Lake in the center of the amphitheater and took soil samples. The analysis showed a strong reservoir of phosphorus created for a limited period of time. One of the versions of "phosphoric anomalies" — numerous acts of sacrifice near Seitas, resulting in deposits of animal bones appeared. Perhaps the name is death mountain is linked to numerous bloody sacrifices.
Typically these objects are relevant to Sámi traditions. But, as the Karelian archaeologist Mark Shakhnovich, complex Death-grief, apparently, much ancient and is included in the complex of megalithic structures erected on the European Atlantic coast from Spain to Norway in the bronze age.
The size of the stones varied from small pebbles to huge boulders, weighing an estimated amounts to several tons. But the interesting thing is that these boulders placed at the original "supports" consisting of 3-4 small stones.
It is not known who, when and for what purposes has created numerous stone buildings. It is possible that this creation of the ancient inhabitants of Karelia — Sami, who knew about the unusual properties of the mountains, and used this place for the holding of religious ceremonies.
Why Vottovara was elected by ancient people as a place best suited for ritual Ordinances? It turns out that while scientists for several years at the Vottovaare his research, hearing about the mysterious Mount quickly spread among fans of all unusual. Amateur expedition pulled here file. And today it is hardly the most frequent guests — psychics. Once a year on the mountain traditionally brings together the most authoritative sorcerers and magicians from all over Russia. That leads them here? Participants of such charges saying that nowhere else in Russia, they do not have such close contact with the cosmos. According to psychics, energy of this place is unusually high, it fueled their inner strength, like a powerful battery. They are called "Vottovaaru" acupuncture point, through which the planet, as if through an antenna, carries out energy-information exchange with the cosmos. Check out this pretty hard, and it remains to believe professionals magic word. But it is not excluded that the ancient inhabitants of these places could know about the unusual properties of the mountain Vottovara, and because, when they faced the question of where it should be "country sacrificial idols", they long to contemplate.
Unfortunately, serious physical studies on Vottovaare have not yet been carried out. Who knows, you may measure the background radiation and electromagnetic radiation would help understand the nature of the phenomenon and explain developments here very strange phenomena. Listening to stories sent people here, only it is amazing. Many note the anomalous effects of mountains on the machinery and electronic equipment and even on the human body. In the records of the several expeditions you can find many descriptions of how there was a simultaneous stop watches directly from several members of the expedition, digital cameras suddenly found themselves crowded "fresh" Flash cards, some researchers began nosebleeds, people could not go to clock good visible goal.
Vottovara securely stores not only the ancient mysteries, but offers and new puzzles. So, different witnesses repeatedly reported observations of unidentified flying objects in the vicinity of Vottovaary. Some of these cases took place directly above it. For example, in 1987 the year a local resident reported that observed at Mount glowing object that suddenly "disappeared in darkness dramatically, and then reappeared in the ring of fire that seemed relied on stones. As soon as the witness tried to get closer, the object quickly disappeared into the sky.
In October of next year already visited Vottovaaru whole "Squadron" of UFOs. As reported by numerous witnesses, moved it over the mountain, quickly changing the interposition. While some of the facilities, according to observers, disappeared right before your eyes. In addition, the strange activity in heaven has caused disruption of magnetic compasses.
Well, in March 1998 the year local photographer Valery Orlov, contributing pictures to the mountain, was surprised to find that many frames captured a "luminous arc", not visually observed.
Even more strange message in the mid 90-ies were from a group of Moscow tourists who have heard "strange popping sounds emanating from the stones." They had no time to even really be frightened as they heard a "strange" buzzing "came from somewhere above as if there circled a huge fireworks display. A moment later appeared before them, the vision of a woman in a yellow dress. This spectacle, accompanied by mysterious sounds, made from stones, witnesses have left the impression that they witnessed something, "on the verge between divine and fiendish".
It is not excluded that this could all be reasons. No wonder the Saami have existed a large number of prohibitions associated with visiting such places: forbidden loud talking, here not allowed women and children welcomed the arrival of out of pure curiosity, to some, the most "strong" stones was prohibited not only touch, but even to approach close.
(information taken from Wikipedia and http://masterok.livejournal.com/1163610.html. Photo Maria Kuzovovoj.
- Kizhi island in Lake Onega, 68 km from the capital of Karelia-Petrozavodsk. The island is the Museum of traditional peasant culture of the Russian North, one of the largest and most famous museums in Russia-the open-air sanctuaries. It collected the monuments of architecture, iconography and household items that were created in the Karelian, vepsskih and Russian villages for centuries. Hundreds of thousands of tourists from all over the world come to admire its Museum main attraction — an ensemble of wooden churches of the 18th century — a world cultural and natural heritage. Kizhi island is located in a beautiful place with a natural labyrinth from hundreds of picturesque islands and bays. Sinuous lines the shores and cliffs with growing on the tops of the pine trees, colorful meadows surrounded by blue waters of Lake Onega-all this makes Kizhskie archipelago one of the most beautiful places of the Russian North. (http://kizhi.karelia.ru/info/about/kizhi-island/)
- Ruskeal'skij Marble Canyon. In 1765,. marble deposits were discovered in the vicinity of Ruskeala. The white-gray stone with shades from light grey to greenish found in overgrown pine forest Hill not far from the picturesque Ruskeal'skih falls. Soon begins industrial extraction of marble. Ruskeal'skij grey marble was used extensively in the construction of the Isaac and Kazan cathedrals, marble, Tauride and winter palaces of St Petersburg. Marble quarry operated until 1939, the Finns was flooded, but now it's a deep Marble Canyon old marble pits that gained a new life: the Marmara Lake attracts large numbers of tourists to the beauty of the steep marble coast, leaving the Emerald clear water, ability to swim on a boat through the marble caves, while admiring the amazing variety of shades of marble, or descend into the mine and to pass that way, which once exported marble for the construction of temples and palaces. (https://tourskazka.ru/mramorniy.html)